I Love German Wine and Food - A Pfalz Gewurztraminer

If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Pfalz region of southwestern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Gewürztraminer.

The Pfalz region has such a mild climate that some farmers raise figs and lemons. It has been called the Tuscany of Germany. While Pfalz is far from Tuscany, it is only a stone's throw from the French wine-producing region of Alsace, which also produces Gewurztraminer wines. Sooner or later we will review one (or maybe more) Alsacian Gewurztraminers for our series I Love French Wine and Food. Did you notice the difference in spelling between the German and the French grape?

The Pfalz is a narrow region about 80 kilometers long, close to the river Rhine. The Church owned the best vineyards until Napoleon redistributed them. There are about 25,000 vineyards whose average size is less than a hectare (about 2.5 acres). Given the small size of their plot, most vineyard owners must work elsewhere to make a living. While Pfalz was once the number one German wine producing region, it now ranks number two in both total wine production and vineyard acreage behind its northern neighbor, Rheinhessen.

Approximately four out of five local wine bottles are white. The two top grape varieties grown here are Müller Thurgau, a German developed hybrid, and the often noble Riesling. Local red grape varieties include Portugieser and to a lesser extent Pinot Noir, better known by its German name, Spätburgunder. About 10% of Pfalz wine is classified as basic table wine, over 70% as middle quality QbA wine, and the remainder higher quality QmP wine.

The German Wine Road crosses the Pfalz region. Virtually anywhere you go on this road you can find something worth seeing, worth tasting, and I daresay worth eating. Be sure to visit the city of Speyer. While its present population is about fifty thousand, Speyer was a major center in the Holy Roman Empire and the site of numerous Imperial Diets, huge parliamentary assemblies. From 1030 to 1061 a series of emperors built the Kaiserdom (The Imperial Cathedral), which was expertly restored more than fifty years ago. Just across from the cathedral lies the Palatinate Historical Museum. Other museums to visit include the Technology Museum, Sea Life in the old harbor, and the Wine Museum that features a 1600 year-old glass wine amphora, perhaps the oldest wine "bottle" in the world.

Before reviewing the Pfalz wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region.

Start with Keschlebreih (Chestnut Soup).

For your second course enjoy Kalbsnieren (Veal Kidneys).

As a dessert indulge yourself with Kerscheblotzer (Cherry Cake).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed

Darting Gewürztraminer Kabinett 2005 10.8% alcohol about $14

Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. With such a German name, it's surprising that Gewürztraminer is still a minority in the vineyards of the country. Kurt Darting has created some of the Pfalz's finest examples. The wine has classic lychee, grapefruit and spice tones. A perfect partner for intense, flavourful dishes such as chicken vindaloo.

My first pairing was with turkey meatballs, potatoes, and sautéed vegetables in a moderately spicy tomato based sauce. The wine was round, light, a bit sweet, and not very acidic. The vegetables' sweetness intensified the wine's sweetness, but the wine never became cloying. I tasted apples in the background. I tried the Gewürztraminer with chocolate covered candied orange peels. The wine was round but a bit disappointing. As always, I don't blame the wine for failing a stab in the dark type pairing.

My next trial involved canned tuna perked up with a Moroccan spice known as Harissa, cold roasted potatoes, and a cold vegetable medley. The wine was sweet and tasted of honey without being at all cloying. I did taste the lychee that I was supposed to taste. The wine had pleasant acidity. You might consider canned tuna and honey-tasting wine to be a marriage made in Purgatory but I rather liked the combination. I think it would have been even better if the Harissa lived up to its promise as a fiery spice. For dessert I had homemade biscotti slathered with high-quality apricot preserves. The Gewürztraminer became pleasantly acidic to match the dessert's sweetness.

The final meal included whole-wheat pasta with a commercial spaghetti sauce to which I added sautéed brown mushrooms and red onions. I sprinkled lots of ground Parmesan cheese on the mixture. The wine tasted quite sweet, sweeter than before. Its sweetness was a good match for the tomato sauce's sweetness. The side dish consisted of steamed asparagus with onion powder and a fair measure of cayenne pepper. This combination rendered the wine more complex than previously. It balanced the spices well. The wine was weak with a fruit juice based candy.

And now come the cheeses. First was a Palet de Chevre, a goat's milk cheese from the Poitou Charentes region of central-western France. It was a goat's milk cheese unlike any that I have ever tasted. Frankly it looked and tasted like a somewhat runny Camembert. The wine was definitely honeyed with this cheese. I did not find the combination particularly enticing. Not being able to find a German cheese other than another Limberger, no thank you, I bought a Gruyere, a Swiss cheese without the holes. The pairing was virtually the same. Honey. Once again, no thank you.

Final verdict. Nothing special. This wine was sufficiently disappointing that I won't be buying it again. I like the idea of a German white wine other than a Riesling, but not this particular offering.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. Presently his wine websites are www.theworldwidewine.com and www.theitalianwineconnection.com

I Love German Wine and Food - A Pfalz Pinot Noir

If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Pfalz region of southwestern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Pinot Noir.

The Pfalz is a narrow region about 80 kilometers long, close to the river Rhine. The Church owned the best vineyards until Napoleon redistributed them. There are about 25,000 vineyards whose average size is less than a hectare (about 2.5 acres). Given the small size of their plot, most vineyard owners must work elsewhere to make a living. While Pfalz was once the number one German wine producing region, it now ranks number two in both total wine production and vineyard acreage behind its northern neighbor, Rheinhessen. In the Pfalz, sometimes called the Tuscany of Germany, temperatures often climb into the mid ninety degrees Fahrenheit (mid thirty degrees Centigrade) and many farmers raise "southern" crops such as figs and lemons.

About 80% of Pfalz wine is white. The most widely grown grape varieties are the German developed hybrid Müller Thurgau, and the generally higher quality Riesling. Local red grape varieties include Portugieser and to a lesser extent Pinot Noir, better known by its German name, Spätburgunder. About 10% of Pfalz wine is classified as basic table wine, over 70% as middle quality QbA wine, and the remainder higher quality QmP wine.

The German Wine Road crosses the Pfalz region. Virtually anywhere you go on this road you can find something worth seeing, worth tasting, and I daresay worth eating. The city of Neustadt and its suburbs are close to the halfway point of this road. Every October comes the Deutsches Weinlesefest (German Wine Harvest Festival) with lots of floats and a German Wine Queen. Be sure to visit the Marktplatz (market square) on market days (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) when farmers sell their produce. Take a look at the square's many Baroque and Renaissance buildings and its Gothic church whose north tower boasts the largest cast-iron bell in the world. If you're up to it, you can climb the south tower and enjoy the view.

You may find it harder to view the Elwetritsche, a fabled half bird, half human creatures of the Pfalz forest. You can ride through the forest on the Kuckucksbaehnel (Steam Train) from the Eisenbahn Museum (Railroad Museum) behind the main train station. You'll have to plan in advance because these trains run only on alternate Sundays in season. Finish your tour of Neustadt's Old Town with a few medieval lanes where you will probably want to eat, drink, and shop.

Before reviewing the Pfalz wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region.

Start with Grumbeersupp (Potato Soup).

For your second course enjoy Gequellde mit Lewwerworscht (Cooked Potatoes with Liver Sausage).

As a dessert indulge yourself with Schwarzwälder Torte (Black Forest Cake, Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream and Cherries).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed

Lorch Pinot Noir Classic 2004 13.5% alcohol about $14

Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. This Pinot Noir displays pretty cherry, plum and earth tones. It is dry, light-bodied with a nice, lingering fruit/acid finish. This charming wine's hint of tannin is softened by the lemon, while the cucumber and dill match the Pinot's earthier tendencies.

My first pairing was with slow cooked meatballs and potatoes, accompanied by a somewhat spicy red pepper, tomato, and garlic "salsa". This wine was round and long but not imposing. It was moderately acidic and held up well to the spices. Perhaps surprisingly I tasted some bubble gum. No it wasn't a Beaujolais Nouveau. I like to think that I know when I'm drinking a Pinot Noir, but such wasn't the case here. I finished the meal with a top-of-the-line chocolate mousse cake but the combination wasn't really good. The cake and the wine didn't meld.

My next trial involved a home made barbecued chicken that had marinated in a sweet and sour Thai sauce. The side dish was a specialty of the local supermarket, roasted potatoes cooked in chicken fat. Yummy. The wine was nicely acidic and quite fruity. The wine's fruit was a good match for the fruit in the marinade. On the other hand, I thought that the potatoes would bring out the earthiness of the Pinot Noir. Such was not to be.

The final meal included store bought barbecued spare ribs, rice, and sautéed eggplant in a tangy tomato sauce including the skin. The Pinot Noir was fruity, round, and somewhat earthy with a touch of tobacco that lingered. I finally had the idea that I was drinking a Pinot Noir or almost. The eggplant brought out the dark fruits in the wine. After the food was gone, the last sips of wine were powerful and mouth-filling.

My first cheese pairing was with a relatively soft and buttery German Edam cheese. The Pinot Noir was round and strong. Then I tried pairing it with a French Camembert cheese that was starting to age. I am not really a fan of ammonia. The Camembert cut into the wine's fruit.

Final verdict. This wine was pretty good. I think that I would buy it again, but not waste it on cheese. Also I am not at all sure that I would drink this wine when I'm really in the mood for a Pinot Noir.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His major wine website is http://www.theworldwidewine.com and his major article website is http://www.travelitalytravel.com .

I Love German Wine and Food - A Pfalz Riesling

If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Pfalz region of southwestern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Riesling.

The Pfalz region is just about as far as you can get from Berlin and still remain in Germany. Just over the border lies the famous French wine-producing region of Alsace. In fact, one major Pfalz wine producer has extensive vineyards on the other side of the French border. Its grapes are considered German or French, depending on where they are processed.

Has Pfalz been making wine for a long time? The wine museum in Speyer, Germany proudly displays a glass amphora containing 1600 year-old wine, perhaps the oldest wine in the world.

Pfalz is about 50 miles long, not far from the river Rhine. The best vineyards were in the hands of the Church until Napoleon's visit. The region boasts of about 25,000 vineyards whose average size is less than 2.5 acres. Not surprisingly, most of these grape growers are part timers. Pfalz was traditionally the number one German wine producing region. It now ranks number two, not far behind its northern neighbor Rheinhessen in both total wine production and vineyard acreage. This area is sometimes called The Palatinate, and has been called the Tuscany of Germany. As you might guess from its extensive wine production, the region enjoys a mild climate. Who would have thought that figs and lemons grow in Germany? They do in the Pfalz.

White wine represents about 80% of the total wine production. The two top grape varieties grown here are Müller Thurgau, a German developed hybrid, and the often noble Riesling. The most common red grape is the Portugieser variety, but you can find Pinor Noir here, especially if you ask for Spätburgunder, its German name. About 10% of Pfalz wine is classified as basic table wine, over 70% as middle quality QbA wine, and the remainder higher quality QmP wine.

The German Wine Road crosses the Pfalz region. Virtually anywhere you go on this road you can find something worth seeing, worth tasting, and I daresay worth eating. One place to visit is Deidesheim with its historic houses, town hall (Rathaus), and churches, especially the Gothic Church of St. Ulrich. Every Pentecostal Tuesday the church's entry is the site of a billy-goat auction, folk dancing, and a parade. The neighboring village of Lambrecht pays a tribute of a billy goat to Deidesheim for grazing rights, and has been doing so for more than six hundred years. The area includes the Schloss Deidesheim, a castle first built in the Thirteenth Century. The present castle was built in 1817. The original castle's moats are now gardens. Other attractions include local artists, and the wine estates of Pfalz's major producers, the three Bs, Bassserman, Buhl, and Bürklin.

Before reviewing the Pfalz wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region.

Start with a Pfälzer Teller (Bratwurst).

For your second course enjoy Schönhof Pfannchen (Ham Gratin in Brandy Cream Sauce).

As a dessert indulge yourself with Rotweinkuchen (Red Wine Cake).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed

Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling 2004 11% alcohol about $13

Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Bottles of Rainier Lingenfelder's ornithological labels are deservedly sought-after, because they offer excellent quality at very good prices. This off-dry Riesling, which pairs beautifully with medium-spiced Thai dishes, is a perfect example. You get lovely, rich fruit (tropical, melon, citrus), zesty acidity, and great balance, It's a perfect pick-me-up for dreary winter days, too: open a bottle and sip it before dinner.

Before my review of this wine, I'd like to make a brief comment on the bottle. I don't think that I ever found a bottle harder to open. It may happen twice, but it certainly won't happen three times or more. And now for the review of the wine itself.

My first pairing was with a cheeseless lasagna. The wine was very pleasant with nice fruit and lightly acidic. The acidity did a good job of cutting the meat's grease. When it encountered a slice of poppyseed cake the wine became more acidic but remained very good. It tasted of melon and citrus fruit.

This Riesling next accompanied baked filo dough rolls covered by sesame seeds, stuffed with ground chicken and peas, and topped with a Middle Eastern salsa. The salsa was moderately spicy and included tomatoes, red peppers, and onions. This pairing was quite successful. Once again the wine's acidity cut the meat's grease, and the salsa intensified the wine's fruit. The meal's conclusion was not as fine; a slice of apple cake containing mint chocolate was simply too sweet for the wine. Interestingly enough, the cake did intensify the wine's citrus taste.

I then tried stove-top cooked chicken in a sauce containing paprika and cumin, potatoes and tomatoes. The wine was quite fruity; this time I tasted lime. It was refreshingly acidic.

The only German cheese available in my favorite imported cheese store was a Limberger. This cheese is famous for its pungent smell, being the target of comedy by Mark Twain, Charlie Chaplin, Abbot and Costello, Looney Tunes and others. Limberger is a cow's milk cheese with a soft interior. When I bought this cheese it had virtually no odor but by the time I paired it with this wine the odor started to develop. The wine was able to retain its fruit but did have a flat aftertaste. In the presence of a ripe French Camembert, a cheese made from unpasteurized cow's milk, the wine lacked fruit, but as if to compensate, also lacked an aftertaste. Neither pairing was successful.

Final verdict. I like this wine, and I like its price. I will probably give the bottle one more chance. But if I have more trouble there are plenty of other German Rieslings out there.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. Presently his wine websites are http://www.theworldwidewine.com and http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com .